Day 13: Goodwick to Newport

Weather: Torrential rain and gale force wind, sun later

Distance covered today: 23.1km (14.4mi)

Last night's B&B: The Ferryboat Guesthouse

% Complete: Cum distance:  93.5%: 275.0km (170.9mi)

GPS satellite track of today's route: Day 13 (click!)

The storm was even worse than I had anticipated. By noon it was gusting up to 60mph, according to actual reports for Goodwick Sands from the Met Office, and I’m convinced that on the cliff edge some of the gusts were even stronger. The rain was horizontal and felt like sleet on my face. The drumming on my hood was so loud, I could hear nothing else. Visibility wasn’t too bad, but because I was trying to keep the rain off my face (it was that painful!), I actually couldn’t see much beyond a few yards ahead of me on the path.  I even managed to take the wrong turning in Fishguard, leading to extra distance in a day which was already planned to be lengthy without taking account of the inclement weather.

Before leaving, I had put on my complete extreme rain-gear system, and was reasonably sure it would keep me dry. I decided not to use a rain-cover on my backpack, because it is a little larger than the backpack and I was worried that it might act as a sail in the wind, or at the very least, thrash itself loose. I wrapped everything in the rain-cover and put the parcel in the back-pack.

Mistake!  The rain went through the backpack as if it wasn’t there!  The water pooled inside and soaked everything! It was literally sloshing as I walked. Meanwhile my trouser pockets filled with water, drenching my wallet and everything else in there. Water is no respecter of zips!  I took great pains to keep my mobile and my camera dry and crucially, I did succeed with them.

Despite these inadequacies, the system did keep me personally dry and warm, which, I suppose, is the main purpose, though I wouldn’t have lasted more than a few more hours before the water got through. This was the first time I had tested the apparel in such extreme conditions after my inadequate equipment on the Pennine Way had left me soaked to the skin in better weather!
 
The problem with this sort of thing is where do you stop? Today’s weather was so severe that I would probably only experience it say once in five years, and almost always on those occasions, I would opt not to go out in it. Better gear would be heavier and ruinously expensive, so no deal. I should though have been a little better organised.

Fortunately, I found a camp-site with a small shop and an “information room”. They invited me to use it to sort myself out. I stripped off the wettest apparel, did what I could with the drowned bits of stuff, phoned Veronica to reassure her that I was being sensible, ate a sandwich and a bar of chocolate, and set off into weather which just got worse and worse!  I had only covered a third of my journey and it was already afternoon!

By now I was back on the cliff edge. During the entire day, I did not see a single person on the trail. They were presumably being sensible. Conditions continued to deteriorate. I was walking one step at a time, thinking consciously of placing my foot in exactly the right position, using both of my walking poles for balance and as shock absorbers for the violent gusts of wind. I was never in danger of being lifted off the ground by the wind; my sleek clothing, my sylph-like profile (!) and substantial mass (!!) kept me grounded!

The problem was that the path was now very slippery in the rain after such a long dry period, and in places very steep. My concern was that, being buffeted by the wind, I would slip, sprain an ankle or break a leg, and there wouldn’t be anyone around to lend assistance. Hence the attention to detail, just like Veronica riding her horse; every step counts, no mistake is acceptable, total concentration is required despite the cacophony surrounding me, being professional is not tolerating any mistakes….

I had told Veronica that I would cut the leg short, choosing not to climb the beautiful Pen y Fan on Dinas Island. However, as I approached the junction at which the decision would have to be made, the rain stopped and the visibility improved dramatically. Dinas Head looked so inviting that I couldn’t resist it and I went for the most exhilarating walk of my journey so far!  The wind was as strong as ever and I had to be careful, but the views from that magnificent peninsula were superb! I could see the entire bay from Strumble Head all the way to Camaes Head at the end of the coastal path, and the angry sea was invigorating and refreshing!  My mood changed from soberly sombre to exuberantly buoyant!

I do though have a bone to pick. The fellow from the Pembrokeshire path lot, whose job it is to look at the contours; you remember the fellow I was complaining about way back in Manobier or somewhere?  Well, after a quiet time, he certainly has his mojo back!  Over the past couple of days, he has had me yo-yoing about like a demented pogo stick! He must get a glint in his eye. “I could send them around there on the level, but no!  Down they go to sea level and there they go, back up to the top of the cliff. Serves them right!  They should be fitter!”  To be fair, today he probably had little choice, with all the rivulets reaching the sea and cutting the cliffs down to size. There really wasn’t much alternative.

There do, though seem to be a lot of rivers in Wales! And all I know is that I am going to sleep like a log tonight!

Before setting out. Full storm kit on board!

Lovely Lower Fishguard and its harbour

Note the pole sign and the B&B sign on the pavement. That would have given me a substantial headache! Time to head for the safety of the cliffs!

Being greeted by a wild and angry sea

and a truly beautiful rock!

Looking out towards Dinas Island

I know how this tree feels!

Beautiful colours above a cave right through the rock!

Such a contrast with the friendly shores of the south!

But then the rain disappears and I head for Dinas Head!

At the trig beacon at Pen y Fan, looking onwards to my destination at Newport. That's Newport Beach on the left

The far peninsula is Camaes Head, my ultimate goal for this campaign!

Much friendlier in the sunshine, despite the wind!

What a wonderful spot for a braaivleis!

A truly beautiful tree!

 

 

The tiny layer of soil and vegetation is visible on the top of this cliff. Below that the rock descends vast distances all the way to the Magma and the Core, and eventually to Australia where it repeats the process! Makes one think how precariously and inauspiciously we cling to the very surface of this planet!

 

 

The lovely town of Newport, my home for two nights. Such a relief after Goodwick!